F/W 1982 Gianni Versace documented oroton metal matching set - XS
very collectible oroton metal matching set from early in the Versace label. Gianni Versace is credited with pioneering the oroton material, which is a web of extremely small and fine metal pieces interlocked to form a fabric. chainmail had long been invented and used before this in clothing, but it was the drape, like that of a fine silk, that was achieved in oroton that was truly revolutionary.
he introduced the fabric in 1982 and continued to use it throughout his career, with a lot of his most memorable designs featuring the fabric. this set is best dated to that first year of oroton, as it has the same triangle formation at the collar and is a similar matching set style as the pieces in the Fall 1982 advance preview photos. there is also documentation of the same set on Iman in a gold and silver colour way, though that photo is undated. the same gold and silver colour way does appear on the 1982 runway, however, more evidence that this is correct date.
the set features a sleeveless top with a draped cowl neck and a tiered skirt. for the top, there is a triangle piece covering the bust area, from which the waist portion drapes down. this creates a beautiful line in the top and ensures a great fit. the metal oroton fabric is trimmed in fabric around each arm hole and along the back collar. the skirt has a fitted waistband with belt loops from which 3 layers of oroton fall - under each layer, against the skin, is fabric, which the next layer of oroton lays on top of, that way the metal layers don't snag one another. the oroton itself is semi-sheer, so the tiered effect ensures opacity for a majority of the skirt, but the shirt remains semi-sheer throughout.
Versace's oroton pieces are only becoming more sought-after and collectible. they will last you a lifetime and can be passed down. this set in particular is extremely wearable and despite some of the design elements seeming decidedly vintage, they come together in a way that makes them as stylish now as they were 40 years ago when initially conceived by the genius that was Gianni Versace. the drape and fit of the metal mesh really is astonishing.
excellent vintage condition. there is only one small flaw, where the draping cowl neck meets the collar on the left side, where a few metal pieces have broken away (last slide). this damage is not noticeable at all, and very minor compared to some other oroton pieces we have seen.
made in Italy. metal with fabric, the composition of which is not listed, but feels like a cotton or cotton/silk blend maybe. marked 40/6, but best fits US 0-2 (mannequin is a US 2).
- bust: 36"
- waist: 34"
- bottom: 34"
- length: 23" (in back)
- waist: 24"
- hips: 36"
- length: 24"